"Whoever said you can’t buy happiness forgot little puppies." - Gene Hill
The preparations you take before you bring your puppy home will help your pet adapt to the new environment. You should be ready with food, toys, grooming aids, a collar and leash, bedding and some basic understanding of dog behavior.
During his first nights with you, your puppy may be lonesome for his littermates or afraid of the new environment. A radio turned on low, or a ticking clock can help soothe your puppy to sleep. Introduce your puppy to his collar and leash slowly. Let him get used to the collar for a day, then introduce the leash by connecting the leash to his collar and letting the leash trail on the ground. When your puppy is used to the leash, pick it up and hold it loosely. Gradually increase your control of the leash until you can persuade your puppy to walk with you.
Puppy training can begin at an early age, even with puppies as young as 8 to 12 weeks. Early training can help with important areas of puppy learning, including establishing leadership, socializing, and preventing unruly behaviors.
In most cases, you will be visiting us several times during your puppy’s first few months. Your puppy will receive a comprehensive health examination during each visit.
We will also start your puppy on a vaccination schedule and advise you when boosters are needed. A stool specimen will be examined for intestinal parasites. We will discuss heartworm disease, a deadly disease transmitted by mosquitoes that can easily be prevented with once-a-month medication. Flea control is very important in our area, and a variety of safe, 100% effective, products are available at our hospital. We will give you information regarding elective surgeries and the proper age to perform these surgeries.
It’s safe, simple and effective. Once your pet has the Home Again Microchip, you simply fill out and send your registration materials, along with a low, one-time lifetime enrollment fee to the AKC Companion Animal Recovery Program. It’s a great feeling to know you’ve taken the extra step to help prevent the heartbreak of a lost pet.
Bathe your pet with a mild shampoo such as Hylyt Shampoo. You can repeat the bath whenever your puppy is dirty or soiled. Always comb and brush your puppy’s coat free of matting and knots before wetting the coat. Our staff can show you how to clip your puppy’s nails and also recommend a good nail trimmer.
ACNT has a groomer who is always available to assist you in learning how to properly comb and brush your puppy. If you prefer, we can schedule an appointment to have your puppy groomed at our hospital.
Your puppy is going through its fastest growth period now until it's about 12 months old. These early stages of your puppy’s development represent the most important time in your pet’s life. That’s why proper nutrition is essential. Feed a high quality, life stage pet food like Science Diet Canine Growth.
You should feed your puppy enough of the proper food to meet its energy needs. Use a feeding guide, usually printed on the label, as a starting point only. Thereafter, the amount you feed should be adjusted to maintain optimum body weight.
Many owners enjoy giving their pets treats. It is important to use a quality, life stage treat. Most grocery store treats are very high in calories and may lead to obesity or improper nutrition if used in excess. We recommend using regular diet kibble as treats for most of the training sessions.
"Nobody can fully understand the meaning of love unless he’s owned a dog. A dog can show you more honest affection with a flick of his tail than a man can gather through a lifetime of handshakes." - Gene Hill
Puppy training can begin at 8-12 weeks. Early training can help with establishing leadership, socializing, and preventing unruly behaviors.
It is important to use correct training methods. Puppies don’t learn well with forceful training. In addition, too much force during your puppy’s formative months can ruin your bond with your pet. Use positive motivation to facilitate the training process. The biggest motivating factors for training and reinforcing obedient behavior are food, a favored toy, affection, and social attention.
Generally, the healthiest choice for a reward is the puppy’s own dry food, along with praise. Special treats are usually not necessary. Training just prior to the puppy’s routine dinner is an excellent time, as the puppy’s interest in the food will be focused.
As the pup gets better at performing the desired behavior stop giving a food reward for less than exact responses, and only reward quick, well-performed responses. Once you reach your goal, continue to give praise for every correct response but only provide the food reward on an intermittent, random basis.
Hold a piece of dry food between your thumb and forefinger, extend it toward the pup, and say its name. As he approaches you, repeatedly wave your hand toward your chest and say come. This gives your pet both verbal and visual cues to respond to. When he reaches you, give him the food and, as he eats, take a few steps back and repeat the procedure.
Start with the puppy in the standing position. Hold a piece of dry food in front of his nose and say the pet’s name. Slowly move the food over the pet’s head so that its nose points straight up. As the puppy’s nose goes up, his rear end will be leveraged into the sit position. Say "sit" as he assumes the position and give the food reward. Be careful not to hold the food lure too high above the pet’s head, or he will jump up for the food. After some practicing, the pup will sit when you sweep your hand in a movement, even without food.
There are numerous books available to help you with training your new puppy. Resources are also available on the internet. Our hospital has an excellent video covering the basics of training your new puppy.
Teaching this command is easier if the pup is on a smooth surface, such as tile or linoleum. Begin in the sitting position. Hold a piece of dry food directly in front of his nose. Say the pet’s name and, with a swift movement, move the food down to the floor directly next to the puppy’s front paws. As the pet slides into the down position, say "down," and give the food reward. This command takes a little more patience than the first two. Be careful to move the food to the floor, right next to the paws. Otherwise if the food is five inches or more in front of the pup, he will probably stand up as he tries to get the food. With time, the downward sweep of your hand by itself will cause the pup to go into the down position.
The stay command is the most difficult for the puppy to learn. Young puppies don’t like to sit still for very long and love to follow people. Keeping this in mind will help you understand your puppy’s actions, and you will be better able to train it. The best time to begin training is when your puppy is calm, possibly after a long walk or play session.
Start in the sitting position. Ask him to sit using a hand and a verbal signal, but no foods. As soon as the puppy is sitting, lean toward him, make fixed eye contact, extend the palm of your hand toward the pup, and in a firm voice say "stay." Wait only one second, then return to your dog, calmly praise him, and give the food reward while the dog is still sitting.
Gradually, you can request that the pup stay for longer and longer periods. If the pet strays from eye contact, calmly repeat "stay" in a serious tone as you lean toward it. Once your pet will successfully stay for ten seconds at one step away, you can start working on distance. Slowly increase distance and time until your puppy fully understands the concept.
Always use hand signals along with food rewards. A puppy will respond better to a double signal command.
You will likely be visiting us several times during your puppy’s first few months so we would like you to feel comfortable about asking questions. Just remember-that’s why we’re here!
"I can train any dog in five minutes. It's training the owner that takes longer." - Barbara Woodhouse
Over-exuberant play, nipping, jumping up, and play biting are just a few of the types of puppy behaviors that owners will need to control. The owner can either ignore the behavior and walk away, or may be able to train the puppy to cease by using a sharp firm verbal correction, or a punishment device (water or air horn). Punishment must be applied instantaneously as the problem begins, and rewards (praise, affection, treats) should be given only for an immediate correct response.
Most owners have difficulty stopping the pet from jumping all over everyone because they are inconsistent in applying appropriate corrections and they neglect to teach the pet an acceptable greeting. The best way to teach an acceptable greeting is to repeatedly call the dog, ask him to sit, and reward him for sitting quietly. The pet should never be encouraged to jump up during play. Whenever the pet jumps on the owner or a visitor, he must immediately be reprimanded. Use a shake can accompanied by a loud "NO" to stop the pet as he starts to jump up on someone. After he returns to the ground, wait five seconds and give him a quiet verbal reward. Since many of the problems occur at the front door, it is helpful to repeat a series of exercises there.
Every time the dog vocalizes, the owner should say "QUIET" in a stern tone of voice, call the pet in a happy tone of voice, ask him to sit, and reward him for sitting quietly. If the puppy ignores the command, the owner should shout "QUIET" and pass this command with something aversive, such as the noise of a shake can or air horn. Then call him for a sit and a reward. Eventually the pet will learn to be quiet with the first command to avoid the loud noise.
When you couple teething with the curiosity and high energy of an exploring puppy, you end up with an incredible chewing machine. Tug-of-war games can set the puppy up to fail. Correction of chewing problems requires a combination of encouraging proper chewing, discouraging inappropriate chewing, and preventing inappropriate chewing at all times that the puppy cannot be supervised.
The owner should find toys that the puppy likes to chew, encourage the chewing, and reward him every time he chews the toys. Offer a large variety of toys. Smear a small amount of cheese or peanut butter on the toy to encourage chewing, and give small food rewards or praise every time the puppy initiates chewing.
Some puppies would rather use your hand than a chew toy. At a young age puppies learn how much mouth pressure is too much by the reactions of their littermates. When puppies play, they chomp each other’s ears and chew each other’s necks, until one bites down too hard. Then, the bitten puppy lets out a piercing "ieeyyy" (hurt puppy noise), gets up and walks away. This teaches the biting puppy that when he is too rough, play ends.
When your puppy clamps down, let out a very loud "YELP" in imitation of a hurt puppy. Leave your hand in his mouth until the pressure is released, then slowly remove your hand. Praise him in a calm manner and offer him an appropriate chew toy.
Another option is to push your hand in further to create a bit of discomfort. This causes the puppy to "spit" you out. Once your hand has been released, praise. Spraying your hands with a bitter tasting spray can act as a deterrent. Use diluted lemon juice in a pinch.
"Natural discipline" involves grasping the puppy by the scruff of the neck and holding his muzzle with the other hand. Gently press the muzzle towards his chest as you say, in a low, growly tone of voice, "NO BITE". Hold until he "says uncle" (quits resisting).
This is a subordinate response to a dominant posturing by another animal during greeting. The owner needs to identify all stimuli presented by the greeter that cause the submissive urination, and avoid these interactions. Very submissive dogs must be ignored when the owner arrives home and later may be greeted very quietly when the pet is less anxious or excited.
Most puppies will grow out of this behavior. To speed up this process, the pet can be taught to sit for food each time he greets someone. Eating and elimination are incompatible behaviors and if the pet anticipates food at each greeting, he is unlikely to eliminate. Under no circumstances should the pet be punished for wetting submissively. Even a light scolding will make the problem worse.
Coprophagia (eating feces) is a problem in some puppies, which usually, but not always, clears up by adulthood. When left unsupervised, puppies may simply begin to eat feces as a playful or investigative activity. Coprophagia can best be corrected by preventing access to all feces, thorough cleaning of the pet’s property, and constant supervision when the puppy is outdoors. At the first indication of feces sniffing or investigation the puppy should be interrupted with a firm command or a quick pull on the leash.
Puppies should never be confined in a crate for more than 3-4 hours until they are at least four months old.
We all need a special place to call our own-a sanctuary of sorts. Your pet is no different. Part of raising a healthy puppy is providing him with his own sanctuary, and crates are a perfect solution. Both puppies and adult dogs can be easily trained to enjoy the retreat to their crate.
Crate training is neither cruel nor unfair, provided your puppy has sufficient exercise and an opportunity to eliminate before you place him in the crate. However, allowing your dog to wander through the home unsupervised to investigate, chew, and eliminate is unwise and potentially dangerous.
The first step is purchasing a crate. Two basic styles exist: metal, collapsible crates with tray floors and plastic traveling crates. The crate should be large enough to accommodate your puppy when he is full grown. You will initially need to partition off part of it so the puppy doesn’t have too much room. If the area is too large, the puppy will use it to go to the bathroom.
Because dogs are social animals, the ideal location for the crate is in a room where your family spends a lot of time. Move the crate from room to room with you and allow your puppy to sleep in his crate in your bedroom at night. This gives him a sense of security and he will settle down much more quickly knowing you are right there. Avoid keeping the crate in an isolated room.
Introduce your puppy to the crate by placing a few treats, toys, or food in the crate to motivate your puppy to enter voluntarily. You can expect some degree of distress the first few times your puppy is separated from his family members. Never reward the pup by letting him out when he cries or whines. Ignore him until the crying stops, and then release him. A radio or television can help calm your puppy and mask noises that sometimes trigger barking. A hot-water bottle wrapped in a towel calms some pups.
The first confinement session should be after a period of play, exercise, and elimination (when he is ready to take a nap). Place your puppy in its crate with a toy and a treat, and close the door. Leave the room but remain close enough to hear your puppy. If crying does not subside on its own, a light correction may be helpful. Avoid any excessive correction-it can cause fear and anxiety. When correcting, try to avoid being seen by your puppy so that he does not learn to associate the punishment with your presence. Try lightly tapping the crate or using a shake can (aluminum can filled with several coins). Do not say anything; you want the puppy to think this has nothing to do with you-it just happens when he cries or barks.
Set your alarm for every 3-4 hours and immediately carry the puppy outside. Place him on the ground and encourage him to eliminate. Praise when he does, and bring him back to the crate. Repeat these steps, gradually increasing the time interval until your puppy can sleep through the entire night.
Finally, the crate is an ideal way to house your dog when traveling. Try short trips first and gradually increase travel time. Let your dog accompany you to the store, the park, or on trips around town, or anywhere that will adjust him to the crate and elicit positive feelings.
The crate should remain a positive, enjoyable retreat-never use it for punishment.
There are numerous books available to help you with your new puppy. Many resources are also available on the internet-type in "crate training" on your search engine. Our hospital has an excellent video covering the basics of training your new puppy.
"Who loves me will love my dog also." - St Bernard (c1150)
Most puppies have a strong, natural desire to investigate and chew. But this desire can be a major problem if your puppy digs up your roses or destroys your new shoes. Many owners rely solely on punishment to correct problem chewing or digging, but you’ll find that reinforcing good behavior works better and keeps your dog happier. You should give your puppy a place where he can explore and investigate, and give him safe, interesting chew toys. Plenty of play and exercise is a must for your puppy, since unused energy contributes to his desire to search and destroy.
When selecting chew toys begin with a variety of toys to determine which type your pup prefers. Just as children enjoy playing with new and novel items, you may find your puppy prefers to play with your possessions over its own toys. Rotate different toys every few days to keep them interesting. When you see your pup chewing its toys, reward him with affection or a bit of puppy food.
Toys made of sheet rawhide, nylon, and durable rubber are most practical. Some toys are designed so you can stuff food into the openings. Others can be dipped in broth or covered with a small amount of cheese or food spread. This will increase your puppy’s interest in the toys, and will extend the length of time he stays occupied.
Even with an excellent selection of appealing chew toys many house-hold items may still be more inviting. Until you can trust your puppy, supervise him or confine him to a safe area, such as his dog crate or exercise pen.
Never give items to your puppy to chew that are similar to household items you don’t want destroyed. For example, your puppy may not distinguish between old and new shoes. As your puppy grows older and is allowed more freedom around the home, it’s likely that he may slip up and attempt to munch on items you want him to avoid. Some puppies can be taught to avoid these items by making them taste bad. Use commercial anti-chew sprays, citronella oil, or a small amount of cayenne pepper mixed with water as deterrents. Diluted lemon juice can be used in a pinch.
Punishment for chewing is not a good solution since it can cause your puppy to fear you. At best, it may only teach him not to chew the items when you’re watching. Tugging on a ten-foot leash is an appropriate way to immediately interrupt chewing.
Dogs dig for a number of reasons; to cool off, chase rodents, bury and retrieve bones, escape confinement, or just for the fun of it. Digging commonly occurs when pets are left alone with insufficient stimulation. Provide your dog with stimulating chew toys, increased play and exercise, and perhaps even a second pet. Of course, give some extra thought to the addition of a second pet, since you could end up with two diggers instead of one.
Digging can be suppressed in your presence by punishment. However, unless you identify and address the cause, the digging will continue in your absence. Try remote punishment, such as turning on a sprinkler, pulling on an extended leash, or tossing a tin can containing a few pebbles. You can also cover the surface with chicken wire or rocks.
For some dogs the most practical solution is to provide a digging area. Build an eight-inch deep wood frame and sink it into the ground. Mix the soil with sand and partially bury toys (smear a small amount of cheese or meat juice on the exposed ends). Occasionally give your dog food treats to reinforce appropriate digging.
Destructive behavior is often a direct response to anxiety, not your dog’s attempt to get even with you. Lessen the problem by teaching your dog that he cannot relieve attention on demand. Train him to rest and sleep in his own bed or crate, rather than constantly lying near you. Exercise your dog before you leave home, and try to sneak out when he is occupied. Practice short departures, then gradually increase the length of time that your dog is alone.
Destructive puppies can be frustrating to the new pet owner. It is important to deal with these problems in a correct manner. Our goal is to help you socialize and prepare your puppy to live happily in your home.
"Cats motto: No matter what you've done wrong, always try to make it look like the dog did it."
Behavior problems are the number one reason why dogs are given away. It’s important to start your puppy off right. Our staff is always available to help you with any behavior problems your puppy is having. We also have more detailed information concerning behavior problems in pets.
How a simple mosquito bite can be deadly!
The adult heartworms live in the heart and major arteries of the lungs. The worms produce microfilariae (baby heartworm larvae), which circulate through the dog's bloodstream.
Mosquitoes bite a dog infected with heart worms picking up the microfilariae circulating in the blood stream. The microfilariae undergo several changes, or molts, in the mosquito’s system. This takes several weeks.
The infected mosquito bites another dog and transmits the larvae into the dog’s bloodstream.
Over the next 4-6 months, the heartworm larvae develop and migrate to the dog’s heart and lungs.
Heartworms live in the heart and in the major arteries of the lungs. They can grow up to 10-14 inches in length and cause permanent heart and lung damage and even death.
If diagnosed early, most dogs can usually be success-fully treated with a recently developed drug called Immiticide. Treatment is expensive, and some dogs may have permanent damage done to the heart and lungs.
Puppies can start on a preventive without testing. Dogs over six months old could possibly have adult heartworms. They should be blood tested prior to starting the preventive to avoid serious reactions.
Did you know that cats could also get heartworms? There is presently no treatment for feline heartworm disease, but it can be prevented with Feline Heartgard tablets or Revolution, a topical gel applied to the skin once a month.
Heartworm infection can easily be prevented with once-a-month tablets that are 100% effective.
Heartworm preventive should be given year-round since our winters have been milder in recent years. Annual re-testing of dogs on heartworm preventive is advised.
All dogs over six months of age should be blood tested prior to starting the preventive to avoid potential serious reactions.
There is a significant savings when you purchase a one-year supply of preventive.
Your home has just been blessed with a new puppy who arrived cuddly, warm, and ready to be loved.
Unfortunately, it did not arrive housetrained!
If you want your puppy to eliminate outside, you must be aware of various conditions and activities that typically stimulate puppies to eliminate, including feeding, drinking, playing, and waking from naps. Learn to be aware of these activities and be alert that your puppy needs to eliminate. Begin to condition your puppy by using a command such as "out" as you take him outside. With time, your puppy will learn to signal if he has to go out.
The next step is to teach your puppy where you want it to eliminate. To accomplish this, you must accompany your puppy every time he goes outdoors. Choose a specific location with easy access. The area will soon become a familiar spot as the pup recognizes the odor from previous excursions. Mildly praise any sniffing or other pre-elimination behaviors and consider associating a unique training command such as "potty time" with the act of eliminating. When your puppy eliminates, praise him heartily, offer a tasty food reward, or start playing. Your puppy will soon learn what is expected of him whenever he goes outside and hears the special command. As you begin house-training, try to take your puppy outdoors every one or two hours. As he grows older and gets the hang of things, you can wait longer between outings.
Controlling your puppy’s feeding schedule provides some control over his elimination schedule. Most will eliminate within a predictable time after eating, usually within the first hour. Because of this, it is best to avoid feeding a large meal just before confinement. Offer food three times each day at the same times. The last meal should be finished three to five hours before bedtime.
The most challenging part of the housetraining process is preventing your pup from eliminating indoors. Until he is housetrained, you will need to provide constant supervision. You should not consider your puppy housetrained until he has gone for at least four consecutive weeks without eliminating anywhere in the home. Until your pup accomplishes this, keep him within eyesight of a family member 100 percent of the time.
When you are unable to provide constant supervision confine your pup to a relatively small, safe area.
Always take your puppy out to eliminate just before confinement. A crate provides an excellent area in which to confine your puppy when you cannot observe him. Do not use it for longer than your puppy can physically control elimination or for more than four hours during the day. Please refer to "Crate Training Your Puppy" for more information. If your puppy is home alone each day for long periods, confine him to a larger area such as a small room or exercise pen. The area should provide enough space for him to eliminate if necessary and to rest several feet away from a mess. For easier cleaning, place paper at the sites where he is likely to eliminate. It is important to associate good things with the confinement area, rather than making it solely an isolation area. Spend some time in the area playing with your puppy.
To help prevent your puppy from returning to previously soiled areas, remove urine and fecal odor with an effective commercial product-we recommend Canine Elimin-odor. Saturate areas of soiled carpeting with odor-neutralizing products-merely spraying the surface is not as effective. If your puppy begins eliminating in certain areas of the home, deny access to these areas by closing doors to the rooms or using baby gates.
No puppy has ever been housetrained without making a mistake or two. It does not help to become frustrated and harshly discipline your puppy. Punishment is the least effective and most overused approach to housetraining. A correction should involve nothing more than a mild, startling distraction and should be used only if you catch your puppy in the act of eliminating indoors. A quick stomp of the foot, loud clap, or abrupt "no" (given with enough intensity to interrupt the behavior without frightening your puppy) is all that is necessary. Immediately take your pup to his elimination area outdoors to finish. A correction that occurs more than a few seconds after your puppy eliminates is useless because he will not understand why he is being corrected. If the punishment is too harsh, he may learn not to eliminate in front of you, even outdoors, and you run the risk of ruining the bond with your puppy. And don’t even think about rubbing his nose in a mess. There is absolutely nothing he will learn from this, except to be afraid of you.
Some pets will squat and urinate as they greet family members. Never scold them. This problem is due typically to either nervousness or excitement, and scolding will always make the problem worse.
Puppies don't come into our world with ready knowledge about humans or the world in which we live. They need to learn all about us-about car rides, vacuums, weaving bicycles, and more. If they don't have a chance to learn about the people, animals, and things in their environment, they may grow up to be fearful and antisocial adults. This situation can usually be prevented with early socialization and exposure to as many people, animals, sights, sounds, and places as possible.
"Whoever said you can’t buy happiness forgot little puppies." - Gene Hill
The first few months of your puppy’s life are the most critical for his development. If this time passes without the young pup making necessary social contacts, irreparable damage may result, leading to fear, timidity, or aggression. Since the most sensitive period for puppy socialization occurs during the first 12 weeks of age, you should begin the socialization process as soon as you get your new puppy.
Start with simple, quiet, one-person introductions and gradually include more people in noisier situations. Invite friends, relatives, and their pets to come to your home to meet, greet, and play with your puppy.
Take him on as many walks and outings as possible. To make the new introductions special, give a small biscuit to your puppy when he meets someone. As soon as your puppy can sit on command, have him sit when he meets new people, letting each new friend give the reward. This teaches your puppy to greet properly, rather than lunging or jumping up on visitors and passersby.
It is important that your puppy meets and receives treats from a wide variety of people of all ages and appearances. A puppy that grows up in a restricted social group may show fear and aggression when later exposed to people who appear or act differently (e.g., children, men with beards). Even if there are no children living at home, it is likely your puppy will encounter them sometime. Therefore, every effort should be make to see that your pup has plenty of opportunities to play with and learn about children. Some pups seem to consider kids to be a completely different species since they walk, act, and talk much differently than adults. If you don’t provide your puppy with adequate, positive interaction with children during his early months he may never feel comfortable around them. Another excellent way to promote early socialization is to take your puppy to training classes. The new concept in training is to start puppies young, before they pick up bad habits and when learning is rapid.
Clinton Parkway Animal Hospital offers classes every Wednesday evening throughout the year. These classes not only help your puppy get off to a great start with training, but they also offer a wonderful opportunity for important social experiences with other puppies and people.
"Of all the things I miss from veterinary practice, puppy breath is one of the most fond memories."
Dr. Tom Catanzaro
It is a very busy time having a new puppy around the house. It is important to make the extra effort to socialize and prepare your puppy to live happily in your home, and his surroundings.
Punishment during the early development stages can negatively influence the puppy’s relationships with people. Avoid training methods that involve physical discipline, such as swatting your pup, thumping him on the nose, and rubbing his face in a mess. These methods can teach your dog to fear the human hand or to become a fear biter. In general, during early months of your puppy’s life, avoid any interactions with people that might make him anxious.
It is important to frequently expose your puppy to different sights and situations at an early age. This will avoid him potentially developing fear and anxiety problems as an adult. As an example, repeated, short car rides can minimize anxiety associated with traveling. If your puppy seems to be exceptionally cautious when first introduced to new situations or stimuli, start off with mild exposure and give food rewards for non-fearful responses. Never give rewards while the pet is exhibiting fearful behavior—this only rewards the very response you are trying to discourage. Your puppy then can be gradually "built up" to more intense exposure.
Properly socializing and shaping your puppy’s temperament requires an investment in time. You will find that your efforts are worthwhile when you become the proud parent of a social, friendly dog.
"Man is troubled by what might be called the Dog Wish, a strange and involved compulsion to be as happy and carefree as a dog." - James Thurber
"No man can be condemned for owning a dog. As long as he has a dog, he has a friend; and the poorer he gets, the better friend he has." - Will Rogers
Even though a large number of our older dogs are overweight, spaying them has minimal effect in contributing to weight problems. Improper nutrition and plenty of exercise play a much more important part in keeping them healthy and active for many years to come.
Females should have surgery at about six months of age ( prior to the first heat period) for several reasons:
ACNT is equipped with the newest technology in pre-anesthetic testing capabilities and monitoring devices to provide the highest level of safety and comfort for all our patients. Each system monitored is programmed to sound an alarm if there is even a small change from normal levels, allowing us to respond before problems develop.
Our staff will be happy to answer any questions you might have about your kitten’s surgery. You are also invited to tour our hospital-we are very proud of our staff and hospital facilities.
"Man is troubled by what might be called the Dog Wish, a strange and involved compulsion to be as happy and carefree as a dog." - James Thurber
A vaccine stimulates the dog's immune system to protect itself against disease. When an infectious agent enters the dog's body, it is recognized as foreign and antibodies are produced to bind to it and destroy it.
When vaccines were first used, human patients were actually given a less severe form of the disease, with the idea that it was better to be a little bit sick now rather than a lot sicker later (cowpox to prevent smallpox was an early example). Today’s pet vaccines are attenuated (weakened), killed, or only pieces of the virus and don’t actually transmit the disease.
Some pets may have a slight reaction, including a low-grade fever or muscle aches and pain that may last for up to 24 hours. This reaction is more common in puppies and toy breed dogs. Rarely, pets may develop hives, swelling of the face, or even vomiting. Giving antihistamines at the time of subsequent vaccinations easily prevents this reaction.
Typically, we will vaccinate your puppy for the following diseases:
"It’s impossible to keep a straight face in the presence of one or more puppies."
Puppies should receive their first series of immunizations at 6 to 8 weeks old, with boosters every 3 to 4 weeks until they are 16 weeks old. Booster immunizations should be repeated in one year to maintain adequate levels of immunity. Thereafter, vaccinations are boostered as needed to protect your pet. Individual adjustments may be made depending on your pet’s risk factors.
Puppies may be born with intestinal parasites, or receive the larvae in their mother’s milk. A recent study showed that over 95% of all puppies are born with Toxocara, a type of roundworm. But only 20% of these puppies will have a positive stool examination. Therefore, we will dispense medication for this intestinal parasite to be given every two weeks for at least four treatments.
Adult intestinal parasites produce eggs, eliminated in the stool. Common intestinal parasites encountered in pets include roundworms, hookworms, tapeworms, whipworms, giardia and coccidia. You should have your puppy’s stool sample examined microscopically for parasite eggs on at least two separate occasions.
The most common external parasites we encounter are fleas. To be effective, flea control should be started in March and continued through October. Ticks are a seasonal problem for dogs that spend time outdoors.
We have a variety of flea control products for dogs, which are safe and 100% effective.
Many clients have become frustrated with their pet’s flea problems. This is often due to misinformation and ineffective flea products purchased at the grocery store. Fleas can easily be prevented in most cases without ever needing any insecticides.
